I went and saw this after reading many unfavorable reviews, and now having seen it I can't figure out all the negative attention. Granted, I may be a little biased having grown up surfing in Northern CA, paddling out at many of those spots, and looking up to the big wave chargers such as Jay, but based on entertainment value alone I thought it was great. The acting was solid, footage was incredible, and story never dragged on or lost my attention. The film portrayed a reasonably realistic vibe of Santa Cruz as a high school kid and the often not discussed elements of surfing. I thought it was great that they were able to bring in the real pioneers of Mavs and local shapers.
The only down-check was that it did feel slightly 'karate-kidish' at times and there were a few events that would be incredibly rare that all seemed to happen at opportune moments.
Perhaps this movie won't appeal as much to many who don't have a passion for the sport or appreciate the massive undertaking of paddling out in heavy surf - but I found it very entertaining. The story may not have been 100% accurate, but the point is to pay respect to and tell the story of an extremely driven and all around good guy.